How to Book The Nairobi-Mombasa Train and What to Expect from Kenya Railways—Based on My Experience

I recently took a break from bouncing around on European rail systems to take trip by train on Kenya Railways from Nairobi to Mombasa.

My advice based on the experience is below, along with wisdom from the dozen or so Kenyans I spoke to who have taken this train frequently and had some tips to share.

About Kenya Railways Madaraka Express: Basics, Stations Served, and Times (Yes, it Runs on Time!)

The Kenya Railways Madaraka Express train running between Nairobi and Mombasa serves the following stations on the SGR (Standard Gauge Railway) Network:

• Nairobi SGR Terminus
• Mombasa SGR Terminus
• Mtito Andei Station
• Voi Station
• Athi River Station
• Emali Station
• Mariakani Station
• Miasenyi Station
• Kibwezi Station

The trains run on a single track between Nairobi and Mombasa and leave at the same times from each place headed towards each other, so they are perfectly timed to cross in the middle at an interchange. Because this is important, the trains run on time, as confirmed by my experience and by Kenyan friends who take them frequently.

The Inter-County trains making all stops leave both Mombasa and Nairobi at 8 a.m. and arrive at their final destinations at 2 p.m., for a six-hour trip.

The Express trains between Nairobi and Mombasa stop only at Voi. These leave at 3pm and 10pm and arrive at their final destinations 5 hours and 45 minutes later.

To see the times of specific stop times at other stations, see the Kenya Railways website, plugging in the day of your trip and choosing InterCounty as per my instructions in the next section.

The train operates at a maximum speed of 120 km/hr or 74.6 miles/hr.

Ticket Booking Options

You can:

1. Book directly: This is the cheapest/easiest/best solution, but it requires getting an M-Pesa account upon arrival in Kenya (can be done at the airport). The phone number and M-Pesa account must be set up in person with your passport—you cannot do this from outside Kenya. See the step-by-step instructions for direct online booking.
2. Book through a reseller from abroad with any credit/debit card: You pay extra but get the peace of mind of having your ticket in advance. See how to book with a reseller.

My recommendation: If you have some flexibility and/or arrive in Kenya several days or weeks before your planned train trip, just sign up for M-Pesa on arrival (this is incredibly useful anyway for purchases in Kenya as vendors often don’t take payment cards). Armed with M-Pesa, it’s easy to buy your tickets. You will hopefully still find a seat at the last minute, though perhaps not at the time and in the class that you wanted. At the worst if the train doesn’t work out, you can book a shuttle ride instead between these cities through one of the train ticket resellers mentioned below.

The exception is if booking for heavy travel periods (see just below) when tickets might sell out and then it would certainly be worthwhile using a reseller to purchase in advance from abroad.

You can also ask your Kenyan hosts (AirBnB, hotels, friends…) if they would mind making the payment for you in M-Pesa.

When to Book (Watch Out for Busy Periods!)

Tickets for the Madaraka Express between Nairobi and Mombasa go on sale 60 days ahead of the travel dates or 62 days for groups (done by email—see here for contacts for large-group ticket purchases).

The Madaraka Express’ busy periods are July to September and around Christmas and Easter; it pays to reserve as far in advance as possible for travel during these periods—tickets can even sell out for some trains a few days after going on sale.

Booking Online Directly with Kenya Railways (Requires Getting a Kenyan Phone Number and M-Pesa While Physically in Kenya)

It is possible to book tickets on the train running between Nairobi and Mombasa in advance online directly from Kenya Railways.

To book train tickets online you must have M-Pesa for payment (see also how to get M-Pesa set up below):

• On the Kenya Railways’ Madaraka Express booking site, choose “Inter-County” if you want an intermediate station or “Express” for travel between only Nairobi, Voi, and Mombasa. If you you prefer traveling in the morning at 8 a.m., you will need to first choose “Inter-County” in order to see that option; the duration of the morning trip is only 15 minutes more.
• Pick your options. See below for the different class options (listed as “coach type”). First class is much more comfortable if your budget permits it.
• You’ll need to enter your passport number and M-Pesa number (to make the payment).
• After completing the process on the website you make the payment as instructed on your phone with M-Pesa.
• The result is an e-ticket, which is simply an SMS that you receive on your Kenyan phone number with your ticket (a.k.a. “account”) number. That’s all you will need to withdraw your actual ticket from the automated machines at the station the day of travel.

It is also possible (though not fun) to do this same process without an internet browser (if you’re on a very old phone) by dialing *639# from a Kenyan phone number and following the USSD prompts to purchase with M-Pesa.

Booking Through a Reseller with Any International Payment Card

If you can’t or don’t want to get an M-Pesa account, or want to get your train tickets before arriving in Kenya (which is wise if you plan to take the train within several days after your arrival, to ensure a seat), you can also use Bookaway, which can book tickets for you for a large but perhaps worthwhile markup. They also show shuttle options. More shuttle options and premium train tickets (only) are available through 12Go.

Several travel agencies (run a search) can also book tickets via e-mail for you as well at a significant markup; we’re not quite sure whom to recommend at this point but if you use a good one, drop a comment at the end of this article to let others know. I might be inclined to try East Africa Shuttles, which charges a simple and reasonable US$ 10 per ticket.

Buying Tickets in Person

Finally, you can also book your tickets in person at the train stations and Kenya Railways sales points, though this is far from convenient as it involves either an extra trip to the station (and through security) or else hoping that the train is not sold out when showing up at the last minute (I’m told that often there are tickets available just before the train leaves, but not necessarily in the class you want).

E-Ticket Retrieval and Printing Via Automated Machines

Your e-ticket is simply the SMS you received; this is not enough for travel. You must have a paper ticket and your ID/passport in order to get on the train.

To print your ticket you go to this automatic ticket printing area in the Kenya Railways station of departure on your day of travel.

The machine is not too complicated and there is staff around to help, though this area can get crowded in the hour before departure.

Enter your Kenyan mobile phone number and the account number, which is stated in the SMS you received as the “ticket number”.

Premium vs. First vs. Second Class for the Madaraka Express

There is a significant difference in terms of comfort and price between each of these classes. The prices below are for the full Nairobi-Mombasa trip; prices are less for trips to intermediate stations.

All classes are air-conditioned.

Premium Class

Premium class adult Nairobi-Mombasa tickets cost 12000 Kenyan shillings (about US$ 92.94 / € 80.35 / £ 70.77).

The premium class seats are like elite first-class airline seating and there is a single seat on each side of the aisle. They fold out flat rather than reclining a bit as in first class, making them an option if you hope to sleep for a bit on the ride.

First Class

First class adult Nairobi-Mombasa tickets cost 4500 Kenyan shillings (about US$ 34.85 / € 30.13 / £ 26.45).

First class offers four-to-a-row seating that is similar to the second class seating in many European trains. The seats recline a bit.

On the window seat, there is an outlet for charging devices and a coat hook.

Many passengers have reported to me that first class tends to be a bit quieter. It was not silent but not too noisy either during my ride.

Having a first class ticket also offers access to a separate first-class lounge area, though it is not that different from the main waiting area.

Second Class

Second class adult Nairobi-Mombasa tickets cost 1500 Kenyan shillings (about US$ 11.62 / € 10.04 / £ 8.82).

Second class seating has a row of three seats on one side and a row of two on the other side. Passengers report that it tends to be a bit noisier, especially if large families or groups are traveling and you get your seat plopped in the middle of them. They say it can be delightful or aggravating, depending. You may find yourself sitting in the middle of animated conversations or chatted up by strangers.

Children’s Pricing

Children from 0 to 2 years old ride for free. Those aged 3 to 11 must get their own seat and ride at a 50% discount. Children older than that pay the same fare as adults.

Important Side Note: Getting a Safaricom SIM for a Kenyan Phone Number, Internet, and an M-Pesa Account, Which Enables Purchasing Tickets Directly from Kenya Railways

Mpesa is the person-to-person payment system in Kenya, and also can be used to pay in nearly any Kenyan shop, service, or business, from street vendors to shopping malls. Once you have M-Pesa, it is more convenient and secure than carrying cash (which can be stolen), and much more widely accepted than debit/credit cards. Also, since there is often a lack of ability or willingness to make change, M-Pesa enables you to seemlessly pay the exact amount owed when shopping.

It is possible to set up a Safaricom SIM in an unlocked phone on arrival in the Nairobi airport, even if you are doing so in the middle of the night, as I was on a 4am arrival.

You must pay in cash for the M-Pesa, so if you don’t already have Kenyan shillings it’s worth first heading to an ATM in the airport and getting cash (or, usually at a worse rate, the money exchange booth), then going to the Safaricom stand. You need to ask for a SIM and credit for internet data. Then the same stand can change cash into M-Pesa, which you can use to buy anything, including train tickets.

This can take 15 minutes or so (more if you have to wait for others) but is very much worth having taken care of, even if you’re tired after a long flight.

Train Terminus Info: Getting There, Security Checks, Waiting Area, Restaurants, Restrooms, and Boarding

Getting to the Stations in Advance

For both the Nairobi and Mombasa SGR Terminuses, be sure to give yourself plenty of time to arrive as there can be traffic jams and one has to pass through various layers of security at the stations. It’s also less stressful to pass through these before the bulk of your train’s 1,200+ passengers start to show up.

At a minimum, I’d aim to show up with at least an hour margin in advance of the trip time to allow for such issues, especially traffic.

A staff person at the Nairobi SGR Terminus told me that the security gates are shut 10 minutes before departure and anyone who has not cleared security at that time is not allowed to come into the station. All people who have made it into the station in time are allowed to print their e-tickets and board.

For getting to the stations from anywhere in the cities, there are very cheap matatus (mini-buses/vans with wild decor) and reasonably priced Bolt and Uber rides.

The Mombasa SGR Terminus has a very cheap (50 shillings) and nice commuter train connecting their old centrally located station with the new SGR station on the outskirts of Mombasa at hours timed to coincide with the Madaraka Express’ arrivals and departures.

Nairobi SGR Terminus

The Nairobi-Mombasa train serves the Nairobi SGR Terminus (located here) near the airport (on the edge of town) and not the old Nairobi Railway station in the city center.

After printing the e-ticket, there is another check of one’s bags and person before heading into the terminal waiting area upstairs.

My ticket was checked yet again on heading into the first class lounge. That amounts to a solid handful of layers of security (theatre?—none of it seems all that thorough). Your ticket is also in theory checked on entering and (I was told) leaving the train but neither happened in my case.

Nairobi Terminus has two sets of public toilets and they were clean-enough on my visit.

In Nairobi Terminus, there are a handful of restaurants and cafés and also personnel from each one wandering through the waiting areas (including the separate first class lounge) with menus and offering service at your seat there.

I ate at Cinnamon, as it had rice-based Indian dishes and smelled the best of the various options, plus had the most comfortable-appearing chairs. The mutton curry was heavy on the rice and low on meat.

Where to Stay Near Nairobi Terminus

I stayed overnight at a nice and very reasonably priced hotel near the Nairobi SGR Terminus that I absolutely recommend, especially if you are arriving at odd hours on a train or a flight (it’s also quite close to the airport). It’s called Kozi Suites Nairobi. The staff was quite friendly, it was a very nice hotel for such a budget price, and they were flexible enough to offer a very late checkout after my arrival (also very late).

There are also other (mostly more upscale) options nearby, shown on the map below for the area around the Nairobi SGR Terminus.

Incidentally, for longer stays in Nairobi, I don’t recommend staying on the outskirts near the SGR Terminus and airport, but rather going in to Westlands (shown below), as it’s a fun area with lots to do in terms of art, music, and dancing. It’s also quite central for getting to most other places that you’d want to go, including museums and the National Park.

Mombasa SGR Terminus

Be sure to head to the new Mombasa SGR Terminus located a bit outside of the city here and not the old train station in the city center (though there is a commuter train running between the two).

Where to Stay Near Mombasa SGR Terminus

Here is a map with some top stay options near the Mombasa SGR Terminus—useful especially if you want to just crash immediately on arrival and then deal with getting to the city center or a far-flung beach the next day.

Accessibility

There are lifts and escalators in Nairobi and Mombasa SGR Terminus.

Luggage

Officially, your luggage should not exceed 30 kilos and the total of its height, width, and depth should not be more than 1.6 meters.

I did not see any checks of this anywhere in the boarding process and I’m not sure there even are luggage scales on hand. Likely you are not going to be checked unless it is obvious that you are abusing the system to transport large merchandise.

Alcoholic Drinks and Other Prohibited Items

Alcohol is prohibited in luggage; you cannot bring alcoholic drinks onto the train, not even a closed bottle in your luggage. I’ve heard that there were problems with drunk passenger prior to this rule.

That said, alcohol is sold in the train in a roving cart (as well as snacks and other drinks). So you are allowed to drink on the train as long as it is alcohol purchased on the train itself.

Other prohibitions are more standard and what you would expect for train travel: weapons and other dangerous items are not allowed. A full list of the rules is on page 8 of this pdf.

Internet on the Train

The train and the train stations do not have public WiFi. Some restaurants have their own WiFi but the Cinnamon Restaurant in Nairobi Terminus did not have theirs working during my visit.

Safaricom mobile service worked for me with tethering while in the Nairobi Terminus and on and off during the trip as I wrote this article.

Dining Car (First Class Only)

A premium ticket includes a meal at your seat; first class offers access to the dining car.

There is also a roving cart with snacks and drinks that comes through the carriages.

Alcohol and tea/coffee can be purchased from the cart and in the dining car.

Train Toilets

There are washrooms at the end of the carriages in the Madaraka Express. They seem to be regularly stocked and cleaned during the trip.

Views of the Kenyan Countryside from the Madaraka Express

Travel during the day on this train allows you to see some Kenyan vistas, farms, and, if you’re lucky, large wild animals.

Arrival at Mombasa Terminus

Mombasa SGR Terminus to the Old City Center (CBD) Via Commuter Train

There is a new commuter train connecting the modern Mombasa SGR Terminus on the outskirts to the old train station in the city center in about 35-40 minutes. The trains are timed to take you to and from the station at times convenient for the Madaraka Express train’s hours.

The commuter train interior has standing areas through the middle of each carriage and seats (which fill up) on the sides. 

A ticket inspector comes through the train to charge 50 shillings during the ride.

Here is a video of the Mombasa commuter train experience from an early rider.

In Mombasa, taxi/Uber/bolt/van (matatu) rides are possible to the city center and elsewhere. Traffic and waits are now reduced since many passengers take the commuter train into the city center after a train’s 1,200 passengers are deposited. I took a ride from an app and it was a bit of a struggle to find the driver among the chaos but after that had a smooth quick ride to the city center.

I took a Bolt directly to the hotel as I had a pressing dinner engagement on arrival (thus the less-complete nature of the Mombasa SGR Terminus coverage). So you, dear readers, are welcome to fill me in on that or anything else I may have missed in the comments. Thanks!